A popular way to start an evening in Dubrovnik is at one of the waterfront open air bars, haphazardly cut into the sea facing rocks of the astonishingly beautiful Adriatic coastline. Only open when the weather is good - you will see why - Buza I (accessed from Ilijie Sarake behind the Jesuit Church, turn out of the square on the opposite corner then left under the walls along Od Margarite, after a short while you will find a hole and you are there) welcomes all, not just for simple cold drinks, flickering candles set amongst the rocks and eye watering sunsets, but now for filmgoers as well. It’s quite an experience to see films beamed onto a large screen affixed to a rock as you dip into the sea. Take your bikini or trunks, scramble down the rocks and discover a sybaritic way to enjoy Orson Welles and other classic movies long before cocktail time is over.
Afterwards it’s time to dry off and amp up the glamour to enjoy one of the best views in town that isn’t the Adriatic. Still referred to by the locals as ‘Bar Hemingway’ due to its Cuba-esque interior and low level, cushioned, rattan loungers, Rum lovers will adore Nonenina, a perfect spot for people watching in what surely must be one of the most picturesque squares in Europe. Sitting directly opposite the Rectors Palace, this small bar’s terrace is one of the biggest meeting places in the Old Town. The long drinks here are as famous as the buzzy atmosphere, daiquiris and mojitos are mixed to perfection with Havana 3 and whisked to your table on silver trays. A great place to come for either early evening cocktails before dinner or a leisurely nightcap; Nonenina enjoys a proximity to many of the great restaurants and hot spots of the Old Town’s extensive nightlife.
Gastro Tip: Also ask your bartender for a small beaker of the powerful, locally brewed plum brandy or ‘sljivovica’, served short in a frosted glass and drunk quickly, leaving a warm glow.